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For me, the level of quality I want from a finished piece is, like, a Four Foot Rule. If that kit looks great from four feet away, I'm happy with that result. Sure, up close it's going to look worse than a Figuart, probably. It's a quarter the price and I did it from my couch, it'd be weird if it didn't look worse than a Figuart. But, like, on a shelf? It looks pretty good! I feel like if I hold to my Four Foot Rule, I can do these without spending a million hours or being upset about my screw-ups. |
For me, it makes a big difference if the model or miniature is for personal use or for sale. For personal use, I don't usually go all out, but if I'm selling the piece it's worth it to go the extra mile. Sanding mold lines, texturing, acid washing decals, all that stuff goes a long way when someone is paying a premium.
With a lot of practice, "cleaning" your pieces before assembly goes pretty quickly too. A lot of it depends on the model, a gundam or figure-rise is going to take longer than an average miniature, because a miniature usually has less pieces. |
I can never seem to cut nubs properly. My exacto still leaves marks on the part, as in cuts/dents where I moved the knife, and sometimes when nib the part further away from the base either the sprue connection falls off, or I'll still end up with stress marks. It gets kind of frustrating since I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
Edit: it might just be that I go to fast while clipping or cutting the nub. I have access to a lot of the tools in the video that was posted on the last page, but I don't know if I have the patience to do all that. |
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Make sure your knife is still sharp! They can dull very easily. Are you using actual Exacto brand blades? I don't think they are actually that good for plastic models. You want a shorter blade than the ones found on a typical Exacto. I use a Tamiya Modeler's Knife. Something that is also rarely mentioned in videos is that model kits come in different plastics (sometimes multiple types in the same kit). For example the red shiny parts of Figure-Rise Kabuto are much more brittle than the black plastic parts. These will "snap" off of your nippers much sooner than the black plastic. In this instance you would want to clip further away then knife it off. The black plastic on the other hand, you're probably fine clipping as close to the part as possible, then using your fingernail to smooth out the area you just cut. |
Just went ahead and pre-ordered myself Amazing Mighty Kuuga!! Between Covid and me paying for the lowest shipping, I'm not sure if I'll have it in on release in August; but I'll definitely be building it as soon as it gets here!
So Dreamsword, I can at least guarantee images eventually from me; and I'll also be getting a normal Kuuga, because the thing I want this for most is Rising Mighty and hence I'll be having pictures of both super forms! https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachmen...30/unknown.png |
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(actually, what'd be 1/12 the scale of a city block anyway? A building? A street?) |
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So it's only really two kits... but hey, at 30 each I think that's still worth the price! |
Something that's been on my mind a little recently.
If Figure-Rise truly intends to do all 20 main Heisei Riders... how the heck are they gonna do Wizard's coat with hard plastic? https://myanimeshelf.com/upload/dyna...6/6145782.jpeg |
I imagine it'll likely be in multiple parts, with the "skirt" section being a soft, rubbery plastic held in place by the belt.
Worst case scenario though it'll be like the pelt of their DBS Broly kit, with is an ugly, sectioned+hinged hard plastic. Same thing goes for Ghost though. It'll be interesting to see how they handle his cloak. |
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