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#91 |
Suprise Gamma Future
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 2,737
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I finally realized why FRS Decade looked a little off. It's the black paint on the sides of the white parts (and inside of the shoulder pad ridges).
![]() I've painted them here and I think it helps look more accurate to the show. The white parts of the armor are definitely a little too high. I bet they would actually look pretty good if they were sanded down a little more.
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#92 |
Suprise Gamma Future
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 2,737
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Some more fun stuff:
I finally got around to putting some Gaia Memory stickers in my Switch ![]() Kinda bothered by how they aren't mirrored so they had to be fixed into the joycons slightly different on each side making them misaligned. Oh well, they look great individually! Also printed out some stickers for SHF Geiz ![]() Not the best picture, but the stickers really improve the figure. Bandai really should've at least included stickers. I used clear sticker paper for that transparent effect.
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#93 |
Veteran Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,261
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ShiShiLeo, do you have any recs for matte black paint, maybe a gundam marker in that color? I tried using a posca for my FRS Faiz kit but the paint eventually flaked off after moving the figure
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#94 |
WONDER RIDER
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,625
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The Gaia Memory Joycons are a genius idea!
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#95 |
Suprise Gamma Future
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 2,737
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Gundam Marker GM10
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#96 |
Suprise Gamma Future
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 2,737
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It's my absolute pleasure to present my favorite Heisei Kamen Rider in SHODO-X Form. My my my how detailed they are. Painting wasn't as bad as I expected because the soft plastic takes the paint very well.
![]() No doubt in my mind that the SHODO-X line is an artistic mini-figure line made by people with who truly love the source material. The quality in paint, articulation, and accessories makes SHODO feel like the best value in candy toys. First up is Kabuto in Rider Form. ![]() ![]() ![]() Most of the paint is silver details on the feet and hands. Some black liner paint within the silver details and a little gold touch up on the zecter. Those little weapons are cast entirely in black. Fun to paint! (that was sarcasm) Interesting to note how the shoulder armor is done here. The Kabuto figures use soft plastic shoulder pads that are connected to the chest armor which allows the shoulder pads to move without the use and fuss of hinges. Next up lets look at Kamen Rider Super-1 ![]() ![]() A beautiful and simple figure only requiring a little silver paint on the top of his shoulders. But those gloves, oh boy those gloves! I consider myself to have great eyesight, but I was tested here. The end result is really great though with tiny details that look fantastic. When I was younger, I had a Super-1 figure with changeable hands and my child self thought it was the neatest gimmick of all time. For the final piece, we have a truly magnificent figure. Hyper Kabuto! ![]() ![]() Pictures simply don't do it justice. Despite thinking Kabuto's base suit is one of the best suit designs of all time, I'm not too fond on Hyper Kabuto, though I do love how it reminds me of B-Fighter's Blue Beet. ![]() The SHODO-X release has optional parts to enter Hyper Form Clock Up Mode which includes effect parts for the jets. Bandai did a wonderful job on the paint application, even though my particular figure had its share of mispaint. Still, I could not resist adding even more detail. I painted the right foot to match the show suit and sanded away parts of the left foot to better match the show. Red metallic paint was added to the thigh armor (perhaps the biggest omission), gold paint in the shoulder vents, and silver and black highlights throughout. Surprisingly, the Perfect Zecter had lots of detail to paint with each of the other Zecters being separate parts (aside from ZaBee's). ![]() SHODO-X are quite impressive. I don't normally collect them, but as Kabuto is my favorite Heisei Rider, I decided to add the set to my collection. Hopefully it doesn't awaken the collector mentality in me. I'm perfectly fine with SO-DO... I think. Anyway my Kabuto collection grows every larger. I'll post an image with all my Kabuto stuff soon. Lastly I'll end with a fun picture I took to justify buying a Wonder Ride Book. ![]() Kamen Rider Buster: Okay kids, time to gather around for the story of the strongest Kamen Rider of all time!
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#97 |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 2,456
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Okay big question for the night, how do I properly thin paints? I know I put the paints on the pallete first then apply either the water, or medium and mix. I think with my first attempt I did too much of paint and thinner, because instead of using the brush to well brush the paint onto the pallet I poured from the paint bottle. I don't super know. What do you think?
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#98 |
Suprise Gamma Future
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 2,737
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Quote:
Okay big question for the night, how do I properly thin paints? I know I put the paints on the pallete first then apply either the water, or medium and mix. I think with my first attempt I did too much of paint and thinner, because instead of using the brush to well brush the paint onto the pallet I poured from the paint bottle. I don't super know. What do you think?
Typically to thin (acrylic) paints you pour the paint into a tiny glass bottle, then pour thinner and stir it well with a metal rod. Thinning paints can change the pigment density and thus the actual color. I don't recommend using water to thin paints for stuff like figures or miniatures. You don't want to do small amounts of your controlled color onto a pallet just in case you run out or have to return to a part- it will be difficult to achieve the exact same color/consistency. I use tupperware! If you're painting a transformer, they have very strict tolerances and I recommend sanding down the protective layer, then maybe apply a primer, then painting. Also if you're painting over a large area, it will be very difficult to avoid brush strokes. Don't feel bad about that, many experienced painters paint for years without overcoming brush strokes.
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#99 |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 2,456
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Quote:
What kind of paint are you using and why are you wanting to thin it?
Typically to thin (acrylic) paints you pour the paint into a tiny glass bottle, then pour thinner and stir it well with a metal rod. Thinning paints can change the pigment density and thus the actual color. I don't recommend using water to thin paints for stuff like figures or miniatures. You don't want to do small amounts of your controlled color onto a pallet just in case you run out or have to return to a part- it will be difficult to achieve the exact same color/consistency. I use tupperware! If you're painting a transformer, they have very strict tolerances and I recommend sanding down the protective layer, then maybe apply a primer, then painting. Also if you're painting over a large area, it will be very difficult to avoid brush strokes. Don't feel bad about that, many experienced painters paint for years without overcoming brush strokes. Edit: Also Citadel paints.
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![]() Last edited by Deepsea; 01-28-2021 at 11:23 PM.. |
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#100 |
Suprise Gamma Future
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 2,737
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Okay Citadel paints will require very little additive to thin down to a good level.
Thinning is often recommended on small, highly detailed paint subjects. Areas that aren't that detailed don't need to be as thin. With models, I always recommend test painting on the sprue. For a complete figure, you should find an inconspicuous spot- like under the foot or something. Or better yet, have a figure you're willing to completely destroy in the name of learning!
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